Let’s not beat about the bush here. Tokyo is not one of the world’s great sightseeing cities. This is, after all, a city that was razed to the ground twice in the 20th century, once by earthquake and once by wartime bombing raids. On each occasion, Tokyo has risen from the ashes, but precious little of true historical value survives.

Yet despite this, Tokyo still has the power to make you go ‘Wow!’ The sense that nothing here is permanent has produced a city that renews...
[Tokyo guide]