From the outside, Sowado presents an inscrutable façade: a featureless concrete wall with a plain, slate-black metal sliding door, giving no hints of the culinary theatre that lies within. This enigmatic entrance is a portal to one of Tokyo's most sought-after dining experiences, but entry is exclusive to those with reservations.
This discreet establishment is headed by Fukuoka-born chef Hideaki Sakai, who puts a contemporary spin on traditional Kyushu delicacies. The menu here is extensive and the dishes are small, so that you can easily savour the diverse array of seasonal produce alongside an eclectic selection of sake and wine.
Among the highlights is the tsukune – individual skewers of chicken meatballs that are glazed with a sweet-savoury glaze before being dipped in creamy, golden egg yolk. The sashimi assortment is also a must, with each slice of fresh fish thoughtfully paired with its ideal complement, be it a squidge of sudachi citrus or a touch of pickled plum sauce.
Specialising in Genshiyaki-style seasonal fish, Sowado also boasts an impressive array of charcoal-grilled options, including succulent beef, duck, and pork dishes that vary daily. For those daunted by the breadth of choices, the omakase course is a good all-rounder, with housemade tofu, sashimi, a soup-based dish, the signature thick-cut ham cutlet and the charcoal-grilled dish of the day.
Whatever you do, leave some room for the buta kakuni clay-pot rice at the end of the meal, where the fatty richness of melt-in-your-mouth braised pork belly is brilliantly balanced with the refreshing zing of myouga ginger. For those wishing to extend their evening, a quieter bar area offers a tranquil space for post-prandial drinks, including shōchū, sake, natural wine, and more.