Kawagoe in Saitama
Photo: Yellow Cat/ShutterstockKawagoe in Saitama
Photo: Yellow Cat/Shutterstock

10 best things to do in Kawagoe: attractions, restaurants, cafés and shops

How to spend an ideal day at Saitama’s Little Edo, north of Tokyo: visit shrines, shopping streets, tea rooms and more

Tabea Greuner
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Only a 30-minute train ride from Ikebukuro Station, Kawagoe in Tokyo’s neighbouring Saitama prefecture is a popular weekend destination. The highlight of Kawagoe is its well-preserved Koedo area, also known as Little Edo. In this small town, you’ll find plenty of souvenir shops, eateries and cafés, all inside kurazukuri, traditional warehouse-style buildings.

Explore the historical streets in a kimono or yukata while enjoying local treats made from sweet potato, Kawagoe’s speciality. Look out for sweet potato ice cream, or imo kenpi (sweetened sweet potato fries), sold along the cosy Kashiya Yokocho – that’s Penny Candy Alley in English.

But there’s much more to Kawagoe than just food. The city is a great destination year round: the little stream behind Hikawa Shrine is lined by cherry blossoms in spring and large koinobori (carp streamers) decorate the Taisho Roman Yume Street around Children’s Day in May.

To make the most of your visit, check our list below with everything you need for a great day trip to  Kawagoe.

RECOMMENDED: Head to the seaside for a perfect day in Kamakura

Go sightseeing

  • Things to do
  • Saitama

The wooden Toki no Kane bell tower is the symbol of Koedo that goes back to the 1600s. The 16m-tall structure was erected by the former feudal lord of the Kawagoe Domain, Tadakatsu Sakai. However, the original tower was destroyed in the Great Kawagoe Fire of 1893, and the current tower is a reconstruction built in the following year.

The Tsuki no Kane bell rings mechanically four times a day at 6am, noon, 3pm and 6pm. There’s also a small Yakushi Shrine behind the bell tower, which is believed to be good for eye-related illnesses.

  • Things to do
  • Saitama

This nearly 1,500-year-old sanctuary is known for granting wishes related to matters of the heart. There are plenty of matchmaking charms sold here, but the most popular one comes in the shape of a red pencil, symbolising the red string of fate. The shorter the pencil gets, the closer you come to your destined partner.

You’ll also find wooden boxes filled with omikuji fortune slips shaped like little red snapper fish. Grab a small fishing rod and snag one of these adorable lucky charms, which make for a great souvenir as well.

Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine offers plenty of Instagram-worthy photo ops, so it’s worth visiting in a kimono or yukata. There’s a picturesque tunnel of ema (small wooden prayer plaques) to walk through, and in summer you can find gates covered in colourful wind chimes, too.

Don’t miss the two ancient sacred zelkova trees in the back of the shrine grounds, and if you walk a little further, you’ll reach a stream that’s lined by cherry blossoms in spring. 

Take a break

Tsubakiya Foot Spa Tearoom

This cozy ashiyu (foot spa) is located in the back of Tsubaki no Kura, a two-storey souvenir shop along the main street of Kawagoe’s Koedo area, Saiwaicho. To enjoy the outdoor foot spa, you’ll have to opt for one of the three available sets, which include either sweets, tea or coffee, or beer. We recommend the Tea/Coffee Set that comes with a sweet snack and drink, plus a small towel. You can choose between coffee and different tea options such as a matcha latte or hojicha (roasted green tea). The outdoor space is decorated based on the season, which makes it a great spot for some Instagram shots.

3-2 Saiwaicho, Kawagoe-shi, Saitama prefecture (Kawagoe, Honkawagoe stations). 049 227 7030. 12noon-5pm; Sat, Sun & hols 10am-6pm.

  • Saitama

Little Edo’s Starbucks outlet is easy to overlook as it blends in perfectly with the old-fashioned townscape. The building was designed in the traditional warehouse style, complete with a wooden exterior made of local cedarwood and a typical tiled roof. You’ll find it just a few doors down from the Toki no Kane bell tower, the symbol of the area.

Kawagoe’s long history is even reflected in the cushions on the shop’s benches. They’re made with Kawagoe tozan, a local kimono fabric used since the late Edo period (1603-1868) and held in place by decorative traditional ume musubi-style knotted cords.

If the weather allows, opt for the outdoor terrace seats at the back of the store, where you’ll have splendid views onto the Japanese garden.

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Korekaki

Kakigori (shaved ice with syrup) is the perfect summer treat, and one of the best places to get a taste of it is at Korekaki, short for Kore ga Kakigori (‘This is kakigori’). The kakigori are made exclusively with water from the Minami Alps. Besides common fruity flavours such as strawberry, mango or peach, the little store is especially famous for its unique creations made using local ingredients from Kawagoe and Saitama prefecture.

Opt for the sweet potato kakigori that’s served with a sauce made from cassis to enhance the flavour, or the Kagamiyama (a Kawagoe sake brand) milk kakigori, topped with condensed jersey milk foam. Another highlight uses local matcha and white azuki bean paste from Hyogo prefecture, which is topped with condensed jersey milk foam. The seasonal lineup changes regularly, so you’ll always find something new to try.

On the day of your visit, make sure to get a numbered ticket online to skip the lines.

1-1-11 Motomachi, Kawagoe-shi, Saitama prefecture (Kawagoe, Honkawagoe stations). 049 214 0858. 11am-6pm, closed Wed.

Have a meal

Unagi Hayashiya

The most popular lunch option when visiting Kawagoe is unaju (broiled eel over rice, served in a lacquered box). There are many unagi (freshwater eel) restaurants in the neighbourhood serving this local speciality, but Unagi Hayashiya’s version is one of the best.

Sometimes you have to line up to get in, but it’s definitely worth it. Hayashiya’s unaju comes in two different sizes starting from ¥3,630 and is served with pickles and a clear soup containing some of the eel’s innards.

2-4 Nakacho, Kawagoe-shi, Saitama prefecture (Kawagoe, Honkawagoe stations). 049 226 3058. 11am-5pm daily.

Coedo Brewery The Restaurant

Local brewery Coedo is famous for its diverse lineup of craft beer, including its signature Beniaka ale made from Saitama sweet potatoes.

At Coedo’s new brewery-restaurant, opened in July 2020, you can not only sample the brand’s standard draft beers, but also limited editions brewed right next door. Coedo’s staff learned their techniques from a German brewmaster, so you know you’re getting world-class beer.

The restaurant’s food is based on Chinese cuisine – think homemade dim sum, jiaozi dumplings and dandan noodles – using local ingredients and organic vegetables.

If you’re looking for a drink to go, head straight to the Coedo Kiosk. The small takeaway shop at the brewery sells bottled and canned beer, and will even refill your growlers, too.

U_Place 1F, 8-1 Wakitahoncho, Kawagoe-shi, Saitama prefecture (Kawagoe, Honkawagoe stations). 049 265 7857. 11.30am-3.30pm, 4.30pm-10pm; Sat & Sun 11.30am-10pm.

Experience local culture

  • Things to do
  • Saitama

To blend in with Koedo’s traditional townscape, it’s worth getting dressed up in a kimono or yukata. One of the best and most reasonably priced places to rent a full traditional outfit is Coedo Vivian.

Located close to the Toki no Kane bell tower, Vivian offers kimono/yukata rentals plus hair arrangements for a mere ¥2,200 (¥3,300 for men; ¥4,950 for couples). The deal includes the actual kimono/yukata, undergarment, an obi belt, tabi socks, geta sandals, a bag and hair accessories. You can choose from 300 different kimono and yukata designs and a large selection of belts.

After getting professionally dressed, Vivian will even store your personal belongings until your return, so you can enjoy the town unencumbered. After all, you’ve got the outfit for the entire day – just make sure to get back to the store one hour before closing time.

Koedo Kurari

This sake spot is a great place to learn about Saitama’s local booze. Koedo Kurari consists of three restored storehouses that once belonged to the Kagamiyama Shuzo Brewery, established in 1875.

For some sake tasting, head straight to the Showa Gura, established at the beginning of the Showa period (1926-1989). Here you can sample local concoctions from 34 different Saitama breweries, all via vending machine. For ¥500, you can buy four tokens, each of which will get you one cup of sake.

At Meiji Gura – built in the middle of the Meiji era (1868-1912) – you can find a large variety of souvenirs, including bottles of local sake, monaka wafers filled with sweet bean paste, sweet potato snacks and more. There is also a café on site, offering a range of lunch options and desserts.

Dating back to the early Taisho period (1912-1926), Taisho Gura houses Hasshutei, a restaurant serving meals made from local ingredients. You’ll find plenty of sweet potato dishes, set meals and udon, as well as appetisers such as Kawagoe pork kakuni (stew of cubed meat) and Kawagoe zaru tofu.

1-10-1 Shintomicho, Kawagoe-shi, Saitama prefecture (Honkawagoe Station). 049 228 0855. 10am-6pm daily.

Only in spring

Enjoy a boat ride under cherry blossoms

Behind Kawagoe’s Hikawa Shrine, you’ll find the Shingashi River, which is lined by beautiful cherry trees. During spring, you can board a traditional Japanese boat and enjoy a picturesque ride under the cherry blossoms. Pro tip: visit towards the end of sakura season when the petals create a beautiful pink carpet on the water’s surface. 

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