Oliva

As good as any in town, this neat, orange-tinted pizzeria near the main square offers the best choices for vegetarians from the two dozen pizzas on the menu. Tables outside in summer, able, reasonably lively staff, simple understated decor of wooden furniture, a tiled floor and framed pictures on the wall – yet Oliva is invariably overlooked by punters for more tourist-oriented establishments. A mystery, really.