The deep-fried pork cutlets at Tonkatsu Nanaido are textbook perfect: gently deep-fried in lard on low temperature, coated in a golden layer of crispy panko breadcrumbs that’s never oily, and featuring premium pork cuts that are tender and still oozing juices. Plus, they are served on gorgeous Imari porcelain plates. Everything is well executed, refined but still unpretentious; it’s honest good tonkatsu that perhaps deserves more than just its Bib Gourmand rating.
Surprisingly, the chef, Takashi Imai, comes from a yakitori background. He trained at the illustrious Bird Land in Ginza before opening his own namesake charcoal-grilled chicken restaurant, which has been occupying the space next door since 2016. Hence it makes sense that the ticket machine at the door – where you place your orders before lining up – also offers a deep-fried chicken katsu option.
Nevertheless, pork is why you’re here, and Tonkatsu Nanaido uses several types of brand pork. The selection changes from time to time, but we’ve seen Tokyo-X as well as the famous Hayashi SPF (‘Specific Pathogen Free’) pork from Chiba prefecture. All is served with shredded cabbage (refillable, of course), rice cooked in earthenware, pickles, miso soup as well as three condiments: mustard, pink salt and the beautiful house-blended tonkatsu sauce that has a hint of plum.
Tonkatsu set meals start at an affordable ¥1,800, with mince and loins ranging from 140g to a hefty 240g. With the restaurant’s short opening hours and small capacity that can only accommodate 12 diners at a time, you can expect a queue at all times.
