It looks unremarkable on the outside: an anonymous trattoria in an anonymous street. But this is one of Milan's most exclusive (though by no means most expensive) restaurants. In a series of bright and chatty rooms decorated by the late Renzo Mongiardino, major players from Milan's fashion and business worlds jostle for elbow room. Service can be uncertain, and the competent Mediterranean cuisine, with the emphasis on fish, might not win any prizes. But this is just what the city's captains of industry want: colour and comfort food in a 'trattoria' that's as hard to get into as the Ivy in London.