The Walrus and the Carpenter

Looking for all the world like a weather-beaten beach cottage—complete with a chandelier resembling bleached coral branches—this snug little magnet for Seattle’s lovers of marine cuisine is as packed with succulent sea creatures as it is with people. Chef-partner Renee Erickson has a taste for the briny, earthy and all-around funky that shows not only in signatures like the grilled sardines with walnut relish but also in the ever-changing specials: smoked-herring croquettes with malt-vinegar aioli one day, squid ink-spiked scallop aguachile another, potted crab still another. They’re supplemented by an exquisite array of vegetable-centric small plates, cheeses and, of course, market oysters on the half-shell. But wait, there’s more: The Walnut and the Carpenter’s carefully edited beverage list works like a charm—cheers to all those fun, food-friendly wine finds from France—and there’s a maple bread pudding in espresso sauce to sap the strength of the most resolute sugar-shunner.