Croatia is the destination of the moment. Some 2,000km of crystal clear coastline fringed by 1,200 mainly uninhabited islands is enticing a record number of visitors. The independent traveller can count on easily and cheaply available accommodation, superb seafood, a lively bar scene and - unless it's a busy island in high season - lots of space. Inland, surrounded by national parks, traditional villages and rare wildlife, stands the culturally vibrant, classically Habsburg capital of Zagreb.