It can be tough for pet owners to get away on holidays sometimes. I know – I own two humans myself. Thankfully, Scotland, with its vast reserves of natural beauty, has an abundance of hideaways where dogs with people are more than welcome. Applecross, a small mainland village across the sea from the Isle of Skye (and a good six hour drive from Edinburgh), is one such haven.
Things to do
Being right in the midst of the great outdoors, Applecross is a good starting point for anyone looking to indulge in some open air activities – humans should check out local adventure outfit Mountain & Sea Guides for a spot of sea kayaking, mountaineering or hillwalking. The single track road that loops round the Applecross peninsula is popular with cyclists, though it’s not for the faint-hearted – the route either starts or ends with the strenuous uphill climb of Bealach Na Ba, an 11-mile pass littered with hairpin bends and spectacular views (I'm at the summit in that pic up top). Naturally, I’m more inclined to head out on foot – there’s a good bay for seal spotting at the nearby hamlet of Ard-Dhubh and a great beach for swimming just over the brae, while in the other direction, the simply named Sand beach offers views of Skye and glimpses of the odd submarine from the local MoD base.
Swimming with pals
Eating and drinking
The Applecross Inn is famed for its menu of freshly caught seafood (including scallops, langoustines and monkfish), but great food doesn’t come at the expense of a friendly atmosphere, and judging by the décor, dogs are not only welcome but actively encouraged.
(There’s also a beer garden outside for watching the gorgeous nightly sunsets over Skye).
The Applecross Walled Garden is home to The Potting Shed, a lovely café and restaurant that also has outdoor seating for dogs and is surrounded by woodland walks – perfect for working up an appetite.
I’ve also heard numerous recommendations of The Flower Tunnel, the nearby campsite café, though I’ve never been lucky enough to catch it when it’s open (the interior is lovely though).
The Flower Tunnel
Also worth bearing in mind as you head to and from Applecross are Nanny’s at Sheildaig and the Kishorn Seafood Bar – both selling delicious food in their respective villages, and both with ample outdoor dining options for dogs and their humans.
Nanny's at Sheildaig
Crabmeat baked potato at Kishorn
Where to stay
Fans of wild camping will have no trouble finding a few shore-side flat spots where they can pitch their tents for the night, with the soft lapping of water to lull them to sleep and stunning views across the bay to greet them in the morning. Those who prefer their camping a little more civilised should pitch up at the Applecross Campsite, which is home to a handful of wooden wigwams and static caravans in addition to standard caravan, camper and tent pitching spots.
The aforementioned Applecross Inn has seven pet-friendly rooms available from £60-£65 a night, with the added benefit that you’re never more than a trip downstairs from the area’s best pub and restaurant. If you fancy all the comforts of home (and have a bit more money to spend), there are several holiday cottages to rent in the area – we stayed in Tigh a Bhradan, a cottage next door to the Inn with its own garden and a wood-burning stove to curl up next to at night.
Getting there
Given its remote location, Applecross is predominantly accessible by car only, though there are some other options – trains from Inverness will get you most of the way there, stopping at the 21 miles distant Strathcarron, with the rest of the journey (or indeed, the whole thing) best worked out in advance with the local Lochcarron Garage private bus service.
Despite (or perhaps because of) its remote access though, Applecross remains a heavenly retreat for dogs and humans alike.
