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There are a few Mexican dishes on the menu, a nod to the origins of its clientele. But the real reason to visit this unprepossessing storefront eaterie is for its range of calmer but still hearty Salvadorean specialities. Chow down on a pupusa or two, a flat corn tortilla stuffed variously with cheese or any number of different meats. Subtlety isn't a strong point of the kitchen here, but you'll leave replete.

Venue name: Esmerelda's
Address: 1000 E Charleston Boulevard
Las Vegas

Cross street: between E Charleston Boulevard & S Maryland Parkway
Venue phone: 702 388 1404
Opening hours: 11am-9pm daily
Transport: Bus 109, 206
Price: Main courses $6-$15.
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