A cross between a glam ocean liner and a swish 1930s nightclub, Oceanaire is certainly visually appetizing. As befits the elaborate nautical setting, the seafood menu is exhaustive—and expensive. But the seafood—from Ecuadorian mahi mahi to Palm Beach cobia, Peruvian ceviche to Costa Rican wahoo—is top notch. Appetizers and side dishes are old school: jumbo shrimp cocktail, New England clam chowder, creamed corn and sour cream mashed potatoes. Desserts—baked Alaska, root beer float, ice-cream and cookies—are similarly comforting. Be warned: the portions are huge, and the effusive service borders on parody.