In an elegant 19th-century palazzo, the five-star Grand is as sumptuous as it gets: all marble, rich draperies and antiques. The gorgeous suites are named after illustrious past guests, such as Luchino Visconti, Maria Callas and Giuseppe Verdi (the composer lived in the hotel on and off for 27 years, and died here in 1901). The efficient service is as discreet as it is friendly. Though the room prices seem shocking at first glance, it's worth asking about weekend rates: you may be pleasantly surprised. The refurbished bar is a relaxed place for a drink (the waiters still wheel in a drinks trolley), and the Don Carlos restaurant next door, run by chef Alfredo Russo, is one of the finest in the city.