Bistrot Blanc Bec is just what Ménilmontant needed. It took over the premises of former local favourite La Boulangerie in April 2015, on the junction of Rue Panoyaux and Rue Victor Letalle. Facing Lou Pascalou and its hipster clientele, Blanc Bec’s midnight-blue frontage stands out from the crowds.
Inside is no disappointment, with a warm welcome and impeccably elegant décor. The gold-tinted bar beckons for an aperitif, perhaps a glass of Morgon Beaujoulais cru, with an amuse-bouche of mussels in a vongole sauce spiked with horseradish. Then to the main menu, which is regularly updated and offers brilliant bistro dishes delivered with care but no unnecessary frills.
For starters, we swooned for a dish of prawns à l’orange with star anise, which rather cast into the shade some white asparagus with a chorizo breadcrumb coating. At mains, even the biggest appetites would be defeated by a gargantuan, perfectly cooked plate of pork ribs surrounded by oyster mushrooms and a white truffle cream. The lighter choice was a lovely piece of plaice flavoured with tarragon and flanked by a squid ink risotto (sadly a touch too inky). Finish up with one of their flavour-packed desserts – tomato and basil confit, perhaps, or cherry clafoutis topped with homemade strawberry ice cream.
Starters are priced between €7 and €10, with mains around €20 and desserts around €10. Not every dish delivered, but the kitchen may settle down with time – no doubt we’ll be back to find out.