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L'Absinthe has been a bistro for decades, conveniently sited near the Louvre and Tuileries, but since the Michel Rostang group have taken it over and extended it, it has become something of a haute bistro. Still relaxed, still low-key, but with a bit of Manhattan about it as well as Paris. The dishes are bistro-style with aspiration. Try starter of chestnut velouté with floating discs of wild boar terrine, main course of scallops on rosemary brochette with crushed potatoes, and pudding of pear tatin with walnut sauce and caramel. On sunny days, try for a table on the lovely terrace and let Paris pass at your feet.