Marcovaldo (CLOSED)

A cute Italian-French organic place, which takes its name from a novel by Italo Calvino, and also puts on a programme of mini concerts and other events. Immaculate tables are ranged in the middle of a soberly decorated space (with a bar, a piano and a wall of books), and while service isn’t exactly speedy, it’s smiling and reassuring. Not so much a restaurant as an elegant café, the daily dishes are written up on A4 paper pinned to the wall: things like excellent aubergine parmigiana, parma ham, confit tomato and mozzarella sandwiches and European cheese selections. All the fruit and veg are fresh-picked on the same day and delivered from small independent producers, though being organic can have its downsides as well (the breads will never equal the more traditional Parisian versions). Another small flaw is that lack of rosés on the menu, though you can get a glass of excellent dry Italain white – an Anghia or Falanghina – for a very reasonable €3.50-€4.50.