Mozza. & Co
11 quai Anatole France
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Time Out says
Posted: Thu Mar 20 2014
Some of the pioneers of Paris’s recent food truck boom have come of age and are beginning to settle down, and Mozza & Co. has followed suit by setting up a permanent branch on the bank of the Seine. As the name suggests, mozzarella is the watchword here – the only ingredient common to every item on the small but varied menu.
This works well in the salads, which offset the inherent blandness of the mozzarella with generous helpings of tomato and parmesan (prices range from €6 to €13, depending on size). The cheap (€5.50) and not so cheerful focaccias don’t manage the same trick: with only ham for company, the cheese never comes into its own, and the whole lacks flavour.
Come instead for the cute cannoli – Sicilian pastries filled with sweet ricotta (which come with a main for an extra €1 or so) – and the charming view across the river to the Tuileries (or onto a graffiti-strewn wall, depending on which direction you’re facing). The staff, who serve out of a stationed trailer, are as disorganised as they are friendly – but for now we’ll give them the benefit of the doubt, and put this down to teething problems.