Ryoko’s

Ryoko’s is the antidote to self-serious, precious sushi bars. The perpetually slammed 30-year-old mainstay is boozy and clubby. (Seriously—a DJ starts spinning at 9pm.) But the seafood is fresh and the preparation is distinctive, from the wide array of specialty rolls (the Dragon incorporates crab, barbecue eel, and flying fish roe) to the flavorful rice, cooked with vinegar made in-house. The seafood is delivered fresh daily and the menu spans small plates, sushi, and sashimi. (Start with the tuna yukka, flavored with a spicy sesame oil, garlic, ginger, and sea salt.) In keeping with the raucous vibe, most diners order Japanese beer while they wait, whether Asahi, Kirin, and Ryoko’s own pilsner.