Ben Pao (CLOSED)

The torchbearers for authentic indie eateries are recommending a LEYE Chinese spot? Well, yes, but with caveats. As opposed to the pan-Asian Big Bowl, the theme here is regional Chinese, with renditions of Mongolian, Cantonese, Shanghai and Szechuan dishes. The menu is massive, so sip on the citrus vodka–spiked, frozen ginger ale while perusing. Best bets include crispy cubes of sesame-coated tofu drizzled with garlic sauce; and a sweet, spicy hunan-style pork with mandarin pancakes for wrapping.