Hiden is an upscale speakeasy omakase counter located in the back of the Taco Stand in Wynwood. Now, just because we revealed its location doesn’t you can just walk up to the door and ask for a seat. First, you’ll need a reservation—and those require patience. Hiden is booked solid for months in advance and the only way to score a ressy is by stalking its Instagram and pouncing on a timeslot the moment new seats are released.
Fast-forward two months later—presumably to the date of your future reservation, if you’re lucky—and you’re in for a treat. By now you would’ve received the temporary, four-digit code required to enter the space. Once you’ve typed it in and made your way through the sliding door (while surreptitiously documenting your entrance for Instagram), you’re sat around an eight-seat sushi bar for two hours of made-to-order dining that will have you rethinking our neighborhood Japanese joint.
A handful of chefs have passed through Hiden since opening in March 2018. Currently at the helm is chef Tetsuya Honda, who’s originally from Japan and most recently worked at Azuki Sushi in San Diego. Together with sous chef James Weinlein—who cut his teeth in kitchens such as Alter and Azul—the two put forth an exceptional 15-course tasting menu that draws from different regions in Japan.
Every experience begins the same way—with a welcome glass of crisp champagne, a briny Kumamoto oyster and an unctuous mushroom soup. What follows is dictated by what’s in season and whatever delectable whim chefs Honda and Weinlein wish to follow. It’s always surprising and mostly delicious. The hotaruika with broccolini, an adorable firefly squid that was cooked so perfectly and plated so beautifully it could be mistaken for a Muppet Babies’ version of seafood, took some courage to try but did not disappoint. Picky eaters, don’t fret: More familiar cuts of sashimi and sushi abound on the menu. And there isn’t a diner who can resist the buttery cut of Wagyu chef Weinlan serves up near the end.
Like any omakase experience of this caliber (toro! wagyu! uni!), dinner is pricey at $170 per person, and the sake and wine menu are commensurate. It’s worth the splurge and perfect for a special occasion or—should you leave hungry and broke—as an elaborate appetizer course before your Taco Stand feast.
