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In the lively Rue des Dames in the 17th arrondissement, Les Caves Populaires is a boho wine bar with a blue collar atmosphere, a choice of wines à la carte and cheese and charcuterie boards that are basic but go well with the wine. It would be difficult to find another bar this friendly in the area, the exception in this domain of the bourgeoisie. Here you can pull up one of the old wooden chairs and play chess all afternoon, or lean on the bar with a glass of red to watch the world go by the huge old style front window. It’s always crammed with regulars, but everyone is welcome. Coffee comes served with a stick of cinnamon, a sweet small gesture. Come early, as places are hard to come by after 8pm.