Kitchen Galerie Bis (KGB)

Time Out says

Thu Jan 24 2013

The younger sibling of the original Ze Kitchen Galerie is a roaring success. Owner William Ledeuil has installed his pupil Yariv Berrebi in the kitchen, and the disciple knows what he's doing. The dishes are sophisticated, colourful and elegant, intelligently fusing the flavours of France and Asia.

Start with the ‘zors d’oeuvres’, assorted amuse-bouche where you choose four, five or six (€17-€23). The chef decides what they'll consist of according to the season, the day and his mood – on our visit, the order brought a throng of small dishes (petit pois bouillon with tarragon, duck ravioli with celery emulsion, calamari carpaccio, pork croquettes and more) lively and delicately balanced.

The main dishes have the same spirit. The grilled sea bass (€30), lacquered with pomegranate and ginger, is served with mango, slivers of ginger, pomegranate seeds and a few vegetables: a cracking match of ideas and flavours. Next to it, the fillet of roast veal wrapped in Colonata bacon fat seems almost insipid (and a little meagre for €29). But not enough to leave a bad impression, far from it – and the seasonal desserts (€9.50) are ingenious.

By AW/EH