Saturne (CLOSED)

All done out in wood, metal and stone, with bouquets of flowers and an open kitchen at the back, Saturne is a calming space. The cooking shows a similar talent for detail and harmony with flashes of inspiration – the chef and the sommelier, Sven Chartier and Ewen Lemoigne, work hand in glove to pair fine ingredients and natural wines.

For €40 at lunch and €60 at dinner (or €65 for a six course tasting menu/€120 for wine matching), you'll find a balance between élan and elegance; a refreshing crab dish surrounded by a citrus syllabub and baby leeks; beautifully cooked Noir de Bigorre pork flanked by baby turnips, orange squashes, endive and mustard leaves; a lovely piece of plaice served with cockles, parsely and fennel. Desserts don't let the side down, either: delicious Mont Blanc pastries flavoured with wild rose, or carrot and citrus ice cream with meringue. All in all, an excellent address – precise, inventive and generous.