Père-Lachaise: An insider's guide
Don't get spooked by tourists – follow this guide to the locals' haunts around Paris's most famous graveyard....
Père-Lachaise, Paris's famous neo-gothic cemetery, lies in the heart of the city's hippest quarters, the 11th and 20th arrondissements – former proletariat areas with a cosmopolitan population and a bourgeois-bohemian soul. Within a 10-15 minute walk in any direction from the cemetery you'll find some of the city's funkiest bars, shops and concert venues. We've picked the best of the bunch for you, so make sure to branch out beyond the catacombs.
For more information on Père-Lachaise cemetery, click here.
Set in an apartment where Piaf lived at the age of 18, when she sang on the streets of Ménilmontant, this tiny museum consists of two red-painted rooms crammed with letters, pictures, framed discs
- 5 rue Crespin du Gast, 11e
- Price band: 3/4
Still the place to see and be seen in the 20th, the Philippe Starck designed Mama Shelter Hotel is a Bobo HQ for dinner and cocktails. Traditional French cuisine is served in the Chic-Chic
- 109, Rue De Bagnolet, 75020
A café and art space in Ménilmontant, Lou Pascalou has been also been enthusiastically appropriated as a neighbourhood canteen thanks to its endlessly inventive nature. There’s nothing trendy
- 14 rue des Panoyaux, 20e
Le Café des Sports' fine and eclectic music programme ranges from electro (Saturdays), to pop or chanson (Tuesdays and Thursdays) to world dub. Beer and wine are fabulously cheap (just €2 from 6pm
- 94 rue de Ménilmontant, 20e
The Bellevilloise is the latest incarnation of a building that once housed the capital's very first workers' co-operative. Now it competently multitasks as a bar, restaurant, club and exhibition
- 19-21 rue Boyer, 20e
This much-loved indie and electro venue is set in the old Charonne train station - a quirky setting for concerts by a stream of local and international groups and DJs. Needless to say the line ups
- 102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 20e
La Maroquinerie's former life as a leather factory is little in evidence these days. It's now a bright café and bar in competition with La Bellevilloise, with a coveted downstairs concert venue that
- 23 rue Boyer, 20e
This tiny photography boutique is open by appointment only, but don’t let that put you off. Owner Emmanuelle Fructus has one of France’s most exciting collections of rare photography books and
- 17 rue Alexandre Dumas, 11e