Travel down to the Kanagawa coast and you’ll run into the small but beautiful Enoshima. The hilly island lies off the Shonan coast in western Kanagawa, and it’s connected to the mainland by a bridge open to both vehicles and pedestrians.
Enoshima is one of the most popular islands nearest to Tokyo. Here you’ll find a number of cultural monuments, quaint cafés and sightseeing attractions – more than enough to fuel a day trip. When the weather’s clear, you can even see Mt Fuji in the distance.
Getting here: The Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass includes a round-trip ticket on the Odakyu line from Shinjuku to Katase-Enoshima Station, which takes about 80 minutes one way. You also get unlimited rides on the Enoden line between Fujisawa and Kamakura stations for a bit of extended sightseeing in the area. The pass costs ¥1,640 for adults and ¥430 for children. It's a 12-minute walk from Katase-Enoshima Station to the island.
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While making your way around the island, don’t forget to stop off at the Enoshima Iwaya Caves, just below the cliffs on the southern coast. Start your exploration by trekking through the caverns and visiting the on-site shrine. Don’t forget to turn around and enjoy the gorgeous view out over the ocean – it’s especially beautiful at sunset. The surrounding reef is also a popular fishing spot.
The Enoshima Aquarium, also known by the locals as Enosui, is an impressive space teeming with sealife. You can get an up-close look at sea turtles on an artificial beach, admire jellyfish inside a spherical tank and get splashed at the dolphin show while gazing out over Enoshima with Mt Fuji in the background.
Located right next to Enoshima on the mainland, this beach has been a popular swimming spot since the 1800s. The waves here are also ideal for surfers of all levels. Stick around for sunset and you won't be disappointed – you'll get a sparkling ocean view along with the scenery of Mt Fuji, the Izu Peninsula and the Hakone mountains in the background.
No visit to Enoshima is complete without taking in the jaw-dropping scenery from this lighthouse observation tower. The ¥500 entry fee gets you up to the viewing deck as well as access to the Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden. To ride the escalator up from ground level to the base of the lighthouse costs an additional ¥360 (children ¥180).
From the top of the Sea Candle, enjoy a great view of Mt Fuji to the west, the Miura Peninsula to the east and Oshima Island to the south.
Looking to sit back and relax? Nothing beats some onsen (hot spring bath) time at Enoshima Island Spa. The complex is right on the island’s coast and features natural hot springs plus ten different heated pools where you can even wear your swimsuit. Although the hot spring baths are separated by gender, the pools are mixed. Highlights include the stunning outdoor infinity pool looking out over the ocean as well as a cave pool with a perfect view of Mt Fuji. Don’t forget to try out the sauna and the carbonated hot spring bath – it’s a great way to relax after a day of exploring the island.
This café in the Samuel Cocking Garden is surrounded by numerous trees and flowers, and offers one of the best views on the island. Take a seat on the terrace and enjoy the sweeping panorama of the surrounding area including the ocean. The café is best known for its famous French toast, but there’s a range of sweet and savoury options here including crème brûlée and even a BLT-inspired French toast. Hearty sandwiches are also on offer, as well as the signature French toast soft serve ice cream – perfect for dessert.
This quaint coffee shop and restaurant specialises in teishoku set meals, so you'll get to sample handmade dishes served with rice, miso soup and Japanese pickles. As for the main course, expect lots of seafood dishes using fresh fish and seasonal veggies. If you're just stopping by for coffee, don't hesitate to order a slice of freshly made steamed bread or even a kakigori shaved ice during the warmer months.
You’ll find this delicious spot near Katase-Enoshima Station, just across from the island and a short walk from the bridge. Open from breakfast through to dinner, the restaurant is all about seafood dishes with a focus on donburi bowls filled with local specialities such as shirasu (whitebait) and fresh caught fish. Heading down early? Don’t miss the fishermen’s breakfast set for a filling start to your day.
Being an island, Enoshima is naturally blessed with an abundance of seafood, but there’s one ingredient that reigns supreme: shirasu. Shirasu is a catch-all name referring to small fish, fry or whitebait, and it’s usually eaten raw, or boiled and piled onto a bowl of rice in a dish known as shirasu-don.
Tobiccho is one of the most popular restaurants on Enoshima for sampling this local speciality. In fact, waiting times can sometimes reach two hours, so here’s a pro tip: stop by and get a queue ticket before exploring the island. On the menu, you’ll find shirasu in all imaginable cooking styles: aside from the standard raw and boiled, you’ll also get them in oversize deep-fried fritters (kakiage), as crispy wafers, steeped in chawanmushi, and more.
Get into the island mood at Moke's, an Instagrammable café complete with fluffy pancakes and cute décor. Diners can expect menu offerings such as Moke's signature lilikoi pancakes, which come topped with a tangy passion fruit sauce, and the equally delicious macadamia nut pancakes. The café also features Enoshima-exclusive dishes using shirasu (whitebait) – a speciality of the area.
This cosy cocktail bar is right on the river outside Katase-Enoshima Station, and its stained glass windows are perfectly positioned to give the best views of Enoshima. Bard opens at 3pm, but we recommend stopping by after you’ve visited Enoshima, otherwise you might never make it to the island at all. Everything about the venue will have you in the mood to stay put just a little longer, from the comfy leather armchairs by the windows to the old-school jazz playing in the background.
Looking for a tasty souvenir or just a great snack? Asahi specialises in maruyaki tako senbei, large rice crackers with two or three pieces of octopus pressed right into the cracker. At the takeaway stand, you can purchase boxes of crackers that make for a nice gift, or instead, get one hot and fresh off the grill to munch on right away.
The must-see Enoshima Shrine is actually a collection of shrines spread out across the island, the largest of which, known as the Hetsunomiya main shrine, is located on the route up to the picturesque Enoshima Sea Candle observation tower. You can't miss the shrine entrance – there's a large red torii gate standing at the end of the Nakamise shopping street. After passing through the gate, you'll also spot the wooden Zuishinmon Tower Gate up over the staircase that leads to the main shrine building.
A must-stop for couples visiting the island, this special bell, also known as the Bell of Dragon’s Love, is where couples can profess their love for one another by ringing the bell and hanging a padlock on the nearby fence. The bell was inspired by the ancient legend of the goddess Benzaiten and the five-headed dragon Gozuryu who fell in love with her.
No visit to Enoshima is complete without a stroll down Nakamise Street, a charming old-fashioned shopping alley filled with local stores and restaurants. The street is on a slope that leads up to Enoshima Shrine. You’ll know you’re on Nakamise when you pass under the old bronze torii gate with its green patina. Pick up a few souvenirs at the zakka (miscellaneous goods) shops, or taste local specialities such as turban shell and shirasu (whitebait).
The street also leads out to a hidden bay called Nishiura Cove. You'll find the entrance to the bay on the right side of the Iwamotoro Hotel. Follow the alleyway down and you'll find the serene spot that faces Mt Fuji.
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