Shimokitazawa’s relaxed bohemian vibe is a welcome respite from Tokyo’s fast-paced, frenetic energy – and yet it’s located surprisingly close to the city centre, just three minutes away from Shibuya Station on the Keio-Inokashira express line.
The neighbourhood, affectionately known as Shimokita by the locals, is an incubator for small, independent businesses. And it's known for two things: its treasure trove of vintage fashion and its love of vinyl records. In between stores selling one or the other – sometimes both – is a vibrant community of quaint cafés and cool restaurants scattered throughout Shimokitazawa's small streets and alleys. If that wasn't enough, the hip hub has seen a recent influx of new shopping and dining complexes, which has helped solidify its place as one of Tokyo's coolest neighbourhoods.
So start your visit with a stroll down Ichibangai for some thrift shopping, then make a pit stop at one of the many soup curry restaurants Shimokita is famous for, and end your day at Bonus Track or Reload for a drink or two. A chill day out in Tokyo, sorted.
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While Kyoto’s Ogawa Coffee may be best known for its kissaten-style cafés, the chain’s latest outpost in Shimokitazawa is an entirely new concept. Ogawa Coffee Laboratory is not a café, and can best be described as a bean salon, offering coffee masterclasses where you can learn to do more with your beans.
The sleek salon sells numerous types of coffee beans and staff will teach you how to brew the best cup of joe using a selection of 40 different coffee tools.
Hashiri is a Tokyo offshoot of a San Francisco institution, which earned a Michelin star for three consecutive years between 2017 and 2019.
Hashiri serves up omakase courses consisting of exquisite sushi and kaiseki-style dishes paired with wine chosen by the inhouse sommelier. The fish at Hashiri are sourced from Toyosu market while the sushi is crafted by chef Tokunori Mekaru who trained at Hashiri San Francisco. The menu here changes every season to highlight the ingredients and produce at their prime.
There are roughly 120 labels of wine on offer, and they are all displayed on the restaurant walls. You can purchase bottles to take home, too, as the restaurant has an instore wine cellar and bottle shop.
Entering this café hidden in residential Shimokitazawa feels like opening a secret door into the owner’s imagination. A good 15-minute walk from Shimokitazawa Station, Hi Monsieur is decorated with quirky knick knacks that seem random except for a vague association with Europe and America.
Many of the cups, plates, clothes and books on display are also for sale, or you could just admire them while you savour a cup of coffee from Yokohama’s Tera Coffee. Light snacks on offer include a selection of baked goods from Higuchi Noriko and cinnamon sugar doughnuts from My Picnic.
You’ll be hard pressed to find a more spacious café in Shimokitazawa, especially one with free wifi. This Brooklyn import is located at the end of the Mikan Shimokita complex and it occupies a sprawling, lofty space.
The menu offers all the usual café drinks (which can also be made for takeaway) along with an extensive food menu. You can eat out all day at Brooklyn Roasting Company, with breakfast starting at 8am through to dinner last orders at 9pm. The food here is reminiscent of American diner staples – think breakfast plates, pastas, pizzas and steak. There’s freshly baked pastries, too, at the coffee counter if you just want a nibble.
Following a successful pop-up stint last year, Sarutahiko Coffee in Shimokitazawa is officially transforming into a cocktail bar during the evenings after regular café hours. The bar starts its service from 7pm and you can order coffee cocktails made with premium coffee beans, plus mocktails and light bites.
For starters, try the coffee margarita made with an original coffee blend, tequila and lime. The matcha martini is also a lovely choice as it combines vodka, lychee puree and matcha for a bright and refreshing flavour. The coffee brocca is another standout, made with Setouchi lemon, tonic water and Sarutahiko's coffee brocca – a spirit created by soaking coffee beans in vodka. For something on the sweeter side, opt for the cocktail coffee float with whiskey, cold-brew coffee and wasanbon (fine-grained Japanese sugar) milk ice cream.
Kitade Tacos is one of the restaurants and bars at Shimokitazawa’s Nansei Plus area, which is also home to Tefu Lounge. The lively eatery features plenty of indoor seating as well as a small outdoor terrace.
While Kitade Tacos prides itself on using local, Japanese ingredients, the flavours are unmistakably Mexican. The authentic corn tortillas are made from 100 percent Hokkaido corn and you can choose from a variety of fillings including pork carnitas, beef suadero and chicken tinga. For non-meat eaters, there’s a vegan option: tortillas topped with soybean tempeh, guacamole and avocado salsa.
While there are a plethora of curry restaurants in Shimokitazawa, there’s only one offering a quirky combo of curry and gelato. Ordering here is similar to a ramen shop, where you purchase a food ticket via a vending machine. You can pick either two or three daily curries served with jasmine rice, along with condiments like pickled red onions and coconut sambol.
Always order your curry set with a cup of gelato for dessert. You can pick two flavours, and since this is a curry restaurant, you can expect Kalpasi to infuse its ice creams with spices.
Cheerful owner Takeda Masada brings the rice and sake of his home prefecture, Akita, to Tokyo at this casual food and drink spot. Masada comes from a family of rice farmers, and is passionate about the grain and all it produces. Bonus Track is the second Andon location, complementing the first shop in up-and-coming Nihonbashi. Inside the pint-sized Shimokitazawa store, you order at the counter, then take a seat around the courtyard to enjoy your Akita sake or beer and bites.
Hakko means ‘ferment’ in Japanese, and fermented food and drink is the speciality of this grocery store and café – the cute logo is a creative version of the two kanji symbols for hakko. Opened by fermentation specialist Hiraku Ogura, the grocery and liquor section here has just about every fermented Japanese product you can think of – and many you didn't even know existed.
A shop with a name like ‘noodles of the future’ has to be doing something different, and the noodles here are like an udon-ramen hybrid. Handmade fresh every morning from mochi-hime wheat sourced from Mie prefecture, the noodles have a wonderfully chewy, or mochi mochi, texture that keeps ramen fans coming back for more. The speciality is the shio (salt) ramen, which costs ¥850 and comes with a hearty helping of the shop’s signature hand-cut noodles and a broth that isn’t too salty, so you can slurp up every last drop.
To get here, wind your way through the backstreets south of Shimokitazawa Station for about 10 minutes – you’ll know you’ve reached Dashinsoan when you spot a traditional wooden gate fitted with noren curtains, and behind it a remarkably lush garden. Inside the soba specialty restaurant, the dining room is bright, spacious and serene, with large glass walls overlooking gardens and a leafy courtyard. In one corner of the light-filled open dining area, you’ll find the room where soba noodles are made fresh each morning, and the large granite grinder for making fresh buckwheat flour.
Located in the jumble of Shimokitazawa’s backstreets, this izakaya looks as traditional as they come, but serves up classics with a twist – think wholesome nikujaga (beef and potato stew) served with garlic bread, and a glorious ‘tofu cheese’ with honey. If there’s space and you’re not with a large group, try to nab one of the counter seats for a prime view of the chefs in action, plus a whiff of the fragrant pot of oden bubbling away.
Ten To Sen has the most visually appealing spicy ramen around, prepared with an abundance of colourful toppings: wood-ear mushroom, cashew nuts, pepper, chives, coriander, burdock, red onion and pork slices. It may be pretty but it still packs a punch. This curry ramen is based on the Japanese-style soup curry originating from Sapporo. The spectacularly good curry is made with pork bones, chicken, seafood, vegetables and a handful of spices while a hint of sweetness works beautifully to counter the heat. Don’t worry if you’re not a spice fiend: you can choose from six levels of heat and order the rich lassi to cool your tongue.
Okonomiyaki joints are dime a dozen in Shimokitazawa, but none of the others get quite as busy as Hiroki. Unlike Osaka-style okonomiyaki, in which the batter and fillings are mixed together before cooking, Hiroki makes them Hiroshima-style by spreading out the batter on a hotplate, and then topping it with cabbage, pork, noodles, egg and other ingredients.
Hiroki also offers noodle-free versions; however, first-timers in particular will want to go the whole hog, which is expertly prepared right in front of your eyes if you’re lucky enough to grab a counter seat. Seafood options are available for those averse to meat.
This kotatsu café, Stay Happy in Shimokitazawa is run by a cosmopolitan, English-speaking Japanese couple who travelled the world before opening their comfy base. A kotatsu is a low table with a small heater underneath and a blanket draped over it, making Stay Happy a perfect winter hangout. Besides the half-dozen kotatsu, you'll find communal tables and even some hammocks.
Owned by musician Keiichi Sokabe, this Shimokita joint combines the functions of a café and a record store. Tucked away on the fourth floor of an office building that's seen better days, City Country City stocks more records than the space can handle – as evidenced by the piles of vinyl stacked against the walls.
Genres range from acid folk to house and ambient, and you can listen to any disc of your choice on the in-store players. Look out for the monthly lounge parties, and remember to order a serving of the shop's much-vaunted pasta.
Shimokitazawa is Tokyo’s soup curry hot spot, and with its relaxed vibe and eclectic interior Ponipirica is particularly popular. Hailing from Hokkaido, soup curry is characterised by a flavourful broth infused with a bounty of spices, tender chicken cooked on the bone, and laden with a rainbow assortment of fresh vegetables like baby corn, lotus root, pumpkin, turnip, sweet potato and aubergine.
Ballon D’essai’s café latte is difficult to drink, but this has nothing to do with the taste. In fact, according to Susumu the barista, the latte is made from secret blend of five beans, and it’s as mellow as the jazz wafting out of the speakers. The flavour is smooth with just a hint of bitterness; the balance between milk and coffee is just right.
What stops you from sipping your cuppa straightaway is the cute latte art adorning your drink. Whether it's a coffee or matcha latte, you can request designs for an extra charge – but we recommend that you leave it to the barista for a surprise.
From baguettes and croissants to melonpan and aromatic herb focaccia, all the goodies at this vegan bakery are free from eggs, milk, butter and honey. We recommend the amazake roll, which has a naturally sweetened white bean paste mixed with amazake (a sweet fermented rice drink) in the centre of a satisfyingly chewy bread roll.
Designed to look like Totoro – the beloved character from the Studio Ghibli movie ‘My Neighbor Totoro’ – these charming choux cream pastries are come in seasonal flavours, which range from strawberry to peach and chocolate. It’s almost painful cutting into these cuties as they really do look too good to eat.
Opened in 1980, Trois Chambres feels a world away from the busy streets of Shimokitazawa. Antique cups line the shelves, regulars strike up conversation over the counter and the corner tables are practically always occupied by someone reading a book – time truly appears to stand still at this kissaten, which might even feel a little intimidating for first-timers. But fear not: the cheesecakes here are heavenly and the coffee comes with a free refill.
If you're on the hunt for a reasonably-priced wine bar, head straight to Hagare. It's run by the popular imported goods store Kaldi, where Tokyoites go to get their hands on international wine, cheese and other foreign goods.
Hagare comes from the Japanese word for 'peeling', and it refers to the condition of the wine bottles here, many of which have labels with minor imperfections. However, this doesn't affect the contents of the bottles, which is just as good to drink.
An unusual combination, this space doubles as a curry restaurant and art gallery. The must-order menu item is the super-dry Kashmir Curry concocted by chef Koichi Isono of the popular restaurant Bombay, while adventurous eaters might want to try the Death Valley Curry with its dangerously high spice level.
The gallery is curated by creatives from different backgrounds and you’ll find artworks from a range of international artists. If any of the items on display are of interest to you, you can purchase them on Sanzou's online shop. The entire curry menu is also available for takeaway.
Try craft beer from around the world at Shimokitazawa’s Coaster Craft Beer and Kitchen. Boasting 15 taps in total – five from Europe, five from North America and five from Japan and Asia – there’s no shortage of unique brews to try. Pair your beer with either lunch or dinner; the open kitchen serves up classic hamburgers and sandwiches as well as buttermilk fried chicken and barbecue pulled pork.
Operating in what used to be a public bathhouse, this spacious store sells imported, non-branded used clothing, while also buying items from customers, or even allowing them to swap threads they no longer want for pieces from the store. (The clothes have to meet certain criteria though – so showing up with a sack of baggy old T-shirts isn’t going to get you much more than a raised eyebrow.) Look out for the incredible sale on the first Sunday of every month, when everything is half price.
A haven for thrifters, this small shop tucked away on the second floor of an unassuming building sells everything at just ¥800. It mainly offers used clothing, accessories and re-styled fashion items, but you'd be hard-pressed a find a better deal elsewhere. Dig deep enough through the massive denim pile and you might even find some familiar labels such as Levi's and Lee in the mix.
This Shimokitazawa store – sibling to its Harajuku and Kichijoji namesakes – stocks a mix of new clothing and American vintage duds that date from the ’40s to the ’80s. Thanks to its US-based buyer, new stock comes in quickly, and there’s a good selection of both men's and women’s clothing – as well as a few extras such as retro-look tableware. You can count on the prices here being low, and if you stop by at the right time you might even catch one of their occasional sales.
Stocking a wide selection of vintage sneakers, Soma sources its curated selection locally as well as from North America. Sifting through the store you'll mainly find rare and secondhand kicks from the likes of Nike, Adidas and Converse. We highly recommend you check the website often to see what's new in store.
Small but substantial, Pianola Records has quickly become a favourite haunt for local music otaku (nerds) for its eclectic collection of tapes and, of course, vinyl featuring unique and rare music from around the world. You’ll find soul, jazz, classical, experimental tunes and much more housed in its neat timber shelves. The store’s owner also runs a record label, Conotala, so if you’re lucky, you might even be able to pick up a pressing by a local artist – they tend to sell out fast, though.
One of the top record stores in Shimokitazawa, an area littered with shops dealing in both vinyl and CDs, the spacious Flash Disc Ranch is found on the second floor of a run-down building on the south side of the station. The vintage sound system is usually turned up almost all the way, accompanying your search for everything from rock and jazz to house and new wave. Make sure to check out the 'three discs for ¥2,000' box, which has been known to contain real gems from time to time.
Based in Shimokitazawa and Kyoto (and online), Jet Set covers all genres with albums selected by expert buyers. If you’re looking for soft rock, soul, house, disco and techno, you won't be disappointed. And if you’re into Japanese pop, you’ll be amazed by Jet Set’s limited-edition 7/12 inch records.
Stockmart is a lifesaver for those living in Tokyo. The inconspicuous shop, tucked away in a basement just a few minutes’ walk from Shimokitazawa Station, offers a large selection of goods you’d usually find at Costco. The best part is, you don’t need a Costco membership to shop here. Plus, everything is separated into smaller portions so you don’t have to buy in bulk.
Shimokitazawa has just opened Mikan Shimokita, a brand new commercial complex built right under the Keio Line tracks.
While the name of the new development might have you thinking of oranges, ‘Mikan’ in this case is short for mikansei, which translates to ‘unfinished’ or ‘incomplete’. One of Shimokitazawa’s charms is its constant state of transition, continuously changing with a new, diverse mix of people and businesses.
Bonus Track is a group of about a dozen shops gathered around a small courtyard in Shimokitazawa. Just a three-to-four-minute walk from the southeast exit of Shimokitazawa Station, the area feels like a small town. The stores include a sake shop, a juice bar, a record shop that also serves Taiwanese food and a bookshop with craft beer. You can mix and match food and drinks from any of the shops and grab a table outside, or dine-in at one of the venues with indoor seats.
This sleek complex is designed to encourage visitors and store owners to connect and interact with each other. The stark white building is accented with lush greenery courtesy of Solso Park, and there’s also a ton of free public seating, with tables and benches dispersed around the building for people to relax and hangout. You’ll find a number of restaurants, cafés, shops, a bookstore, and even a barber shop.
Tokyo’s trendy neighbourhood of Shimokitazawa just keeps getting cooler with the addition of new developments like Nansei Plus, which is home to Tefu Lounge. The complex is also connected to Shimokita Ekiue, the shopping centre attached to Shimokitazawa Station.
Tefu Lounge is a mish-mash of hip, new venues like organic supermarket Bio-Ral, Kitasando Coffee, French café Belleville Brûlerie, and the mini theatre Shimokita Ekimae Cinema K2. True to its name, the second and third floors feature comfortable lounges designed for co-working, while the fourth floor has shared offices and the fifth floor features an event space.
Located on the busy shopping street of Ichibangai, this quaint gallery is a place for young, up-and-coming artists to showcase their work. To know what's showing, check the gallery's official website for its exhibition roster.
This alley is sandwiched between two local theatres: Theater 711 on the left and Suzunari to the right (the latter is the Honda Gekijo troupe's oldest theatre and a Shimokita landmark). Walk through the middle entrance and you'll find the yokocho; this narrow alleyway was once dedicated to rehearsal rooms, but now houses about a dozen small restaurants and bars.
Adjacent to Shimokitazawa's Reload complex is the youthful, minimalist Mustard Hotel, which opened its first property in Shibuya Bridge in 2018. Designed by architect Shin Ohori, this second property features a clean, modern aesthetic with plenty of greenery and seating areas for people to socialise.
The hotel offers 60 rooms ranging from semi-double bunk beds to deluxe abodes with spacious outdoor balconies. All rooms come with a record player. To enjoy that, just pick up a vinyl from the pop-up shop at the hotel lobby; you can rent records for free during your stay.
Yuen Bettei Daita is a day spa, ryokan and tea house rolled into one. The ryokan is situated at the edge of the trendy Shimokitazawa neighbourhood, though you wouldn’t know it from inside the hotel. With indoor and outdoor onsen baths featuring alkaline water sourced from the natural springs of Ashinoko Onsen in Hakone, this traditional haven feels miles away from the city. Arguably the best thing about this place is you don’t have to stay overnight to enjoy the facilities.
Attuned to the needs of city folk who just want the experience of an onsen getaway without actually leaving the city, the ryokan offers several packages for daytime guests who aren’t planning to spend the night.
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