Inside this sparse Pico Boulevard pizzeria with limited seating, husband-and-wife duo William Joo and Jennifer So have one larger, quite lofty goal in mind: making the best pizza in Los Angeles. According to Joo, a veteran of Ronan and Pizzana, among others, a Tokyo-style Neapolitan is the only best-in-town contender there is: a circle of thin, blistered dough with highly pinched crusts, which results in an almost mochi-like consistency. The final product is simple, delicious and light. While on the pricier side, Pizzeria Sei’s pies typically sell out early—reflecting the fact that Angelenos will often pay for quality when they see it. These days, the pizzeria primarily caters to people dining in (reservations recommended), though Sei will open up online orders for pick-up on weekdays.
Move over, New York City: You might have dollar-ish slices, but these days, the Los Angeles pizza scene has grown to encompass dizzying variety of pizza styles, including Detroit-style squares, classic NYC-style triangles, Tokyo-style Neapolitan, Roman pinsas and yes, the California-style flatbreads first made famous by Spago and later, California Pizza Kitchen. Since the pandemic, it’s become easier than ever to grab a slice of great pizza in L.A., no matter where you live—almost as easy as stopping by a taco stand or stumbling across some great strip mall sushi.
In researching this guide, I tried (and retried) 45 different L.A. pizzas, pitting imports from elsewhere like Phoenix’s Pizza Bianco, New York City’s Emmy Squared and Naples’s very own L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele against beloved hometown favorites and up-and-coming newcomers. While they all make wonderful pizzas, I also excluded more upscale, less specialized restaurants like Bestia, Jon and Vinny's and Evan Funke’s powerhouse trio (Felix, Funke and Mother Wolf) since pizzas are a nice-to-have at these restaurants, not an essential part of your order. I’m always on the hunt for the latest and greatest pizzas in L.A., and I’m not afraid to drop old-timers from the list if quality has dropped off. Gourmet or lowbrow, takeout or dine-in, thin crust or thick—these places are serving the best pizzas in Los Angeles right now.