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Locals were heartbroken when the old, beloved Casa Delfiín served its last plate of fried sardines, but it has scrubbed up very nicely indeed in its new incarnation. Meticulous attention has been paid to respecting traditional Catalan recipes, with a rich and sticky 'suquet' (fish stew) and excellent ‘mountain’ lamb with wild mushrooms. Brit owner Kate has left her imprint, however, and you’ll also find the best Eton mess this side of Windsor.