Bar Británico has been set quietly on an iconic San Telmo corner since time immemorial - that is, for pedants, since 1928. Days blur into nights in this perfect BA café-bar, where you can nurse a tiny coffee - not great coffee, it's true, but coffee -or a beer for as long as you like, as you and the taxi drivers watch the world go by through huge picture windows. A change of ownership and a refurbishment had the whole barrio up in arms a couple of years ago, and though it's not exactly as it was - the old-school, Spanish Civil War waiter-owners are gone, and the the toilets are now fit for use - this place still, it's no exaggeration to say, encapsulates the very essence of Buenos Aires café culture.
Area San Telmo
Transport Bus 29, 61, 62, 152
Telephone 011 4361 2107
Open 24hrs daily
A gratifyingly archaic bar, I found it by happy chance on a day when the Museum of National History in Parque Lezama was, to my surprise, closed. As soon as I walked in I knew my stroll down Defensa hadn't been unrewarded. A proper bar from pre-yuppie days. Sit at a table near a window, be served with nuts and the best Quilmes Chopp [ draught ] in town, and watch the world go by. In Buenos Aires the passing world includes a beautiful girl about once every thirty seconds on a good day.
No jukebox so no moronic pop, I never heard anyone shouting banalities into a cell phone either. A great bar in a great city.
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