Ávila is a dark, atmospheric set-up as quirky as owner Miguel, whose family have been on the premises since the 1940s. Once you're settled, a glass of jerez and steaming dishes of stew, paella, and squid and other seafod tapas, are delivered to your table. They keep coming until the flamenco troupe - of local gitanos - leap up clapping, stomping and strumming. Bag a table close to the stage, though you'll be invited to join in, especially the girls. When it's all over, Miguel strolls over and conjures up a price for the pleasure. Cheeky, perhaps, but considering the show and quantity consumed, spot on. Reservations are a must - the liveliest nights are Thursday to Saturdays.