Where to stay in Florence

If you want to eat like a real Florentine, come to San Frediano. This Oltrarno sub-neighbourhood on the left bank of the Arno lures gourmands with its old-style trattorias and osterias serving up simple, traditional dishes. San Frediano has undergone a bit of a transformation over the years, which is evident in almost every venue – artisan shops have become bars, workers’ buildings have transformed into trendy boutique hotels, and butchers are now restaurants. 

STAY 

For a stylish stay, head to Hotel Lungarno. With its panoramic suites overlooking the Arno river, you’ll feel like you’re floating on the water while eating your breakfast. If you want something simpler, check out this cozy Airbnb located in an ancient palazzo with original majolica floors. 

EAT

Fancy a high-protein lunch? 'l Trippaio di San Frediano serves traditional Florentine tripe sandwiches, stuffed with lampredotto (cow stomach). For a huge chianina beef steak usually eaten in two, head to All’Antico Ristoro di Cambi, a cosy tavern decorated with dangling pork legs and huge wine flasks. 

DRINK

You’ll see everyone from teenagers to over-70s at Mad Souls & Spirits, a down-to-earth dive bar and cocktail pub. It’s a fun place to grab a drink with an ever-rotating cocktail menu – even the owners joke that the menu changes ‘every 36 and a half days’. Or try one of the evergreen signature drinks like Smack my Beer, made with vodka, passion fruit and thyme. 

DO

San Frediano is home to many little-known artistic gems. Galleria Romanelli, for example, is an atelier belonging to generations of sculptors, stacked with masterpieces unknown even to most Florentines. Don’t miss the ‘secret’ Renaissance tabernacle on Via San Giovanni, a majestic portrayal of Madonna and Child surrounded by angels. 

If you only do one thing…

The best way to soak up the mood of this characterful neighbourhood is by getting lost in the maze of narrow alleys and tiny sidewalks. While away the hours at a café or stop for a quick espresso, and you’ll likely overhear conversations between American students and local elders.

Despite being only a 20-minute bus ride from Florence’s historic centre, Fiesole couldn’t feel further from the city crowds. It might be its own village, but locals consider Fiesole a city district – you’ll likely see Florentines picnicking and jogging here on the weekends. It’s ideal for a longer stay, and the surrounding gently rolling hills dotted with castles, ancient taverns and aristocratic villas will have you living the rural idyll.

STAY

How about sleeping in a nineteenth-century stone tower overlooking a pristine lake, surrounded by farm animals and trekking trails? Or waking up to nature at rural guesthouse Residence Fiesole? No matter where you stay, you’ll certainly get a more peaceful sleep in Fiesole than in the city centre. 

EAT 

Old peasant recipes rule here. Osteria Vinandro serves up a must-try dish to complete the Florentine gourmand experience: ribollita, a farmer soup made with seasonal vegetables, beans and dry bread, which is left in to soak in the broth. Piatti e Fagotti is another traditional tavern known for its succulent porcini mushroom handmade pasta. 

DRINK

Cocktails and espressos come with panoramic views in Fiesole. Stop for an evening apéritif at Blu Bar and you’ll be surrounded by forests and green valleys – or admire Florence’s iconic skyline from the terrace at Terrazza 45.

DO

Built on the remains of a pre-Roman Etruscan settlement, archaeology is everywhere in Fiesole. After checking out the collection at the Archeological Museum, stroll through the ancient necropolis and admire the grandeur of the thermal baths, temple and amphitheater.  

If you only do one thing…

Did we mention the views already? The best panorama can be enjoyed along the climb to the San Francesco Convent, on the crest of the highest hill. From here, you can take in the Cradle of the Renaissance in all its majesty.

Despite being moments away from some of Florence’s biggest attractions, Sant’Ambrogio has managed to slip under most visitors’ radars. It’s here you’ll experience the buzz of local life in Florence. When it comes to Italy’s evening drink ritual dubbed aperitivo – or apericena if it runs late, turning into dinner – locals here know how to do it best. The picturesque Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, a farmers market selling fresh produce, meat and fish, is as much a landmark as the Duomo, while the flea market a few steps away is stacked with old jewellery and books. 

STAY

Even though it’s part of the historic center, there’s not much choice when it comes to accommodation here. You’ll have to book in advance as hotels are frequently booked up. The most charming is My Little Florence, a no-frills B&B equipped with kitchenette and living room. 

EAT

For a unique dining experience, head to trattoria L’Ortone. This cave-like tavern, with both underground and street-view tables, serves delicious handmade pasta, including Tuscan pici, which is like thick spaghetti. Meat-eaters might want to sample L’Ortone’s pigeon meat delicacies and deer fillet. Or, for a restaurant serving dishes from all over Italy, make a beeline for the laidback Adagio.

DRINK

You can’t visit Florence without tasting its heady reds and fizzy white wines. Stop at Alla Sosta dei Papi to have a sip of Tuscany’s top bottles. Caffé Sant’Ambrogio, where students mingle with pensioners and tourists at outdoor tables, is a popular get-together spot for evening aperitivo with pistachios and olives. 

DO 

Only residents are allowed to enter on four wheels, so enjoy this relatively car-free neighbourhood. Bathe in the sunlight on piazza benches, get lost in meandering alleyways, and chat with locals on church steps. 

If you only do one thing…

Go on a shopping spree at Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, where you can buy everything from succulent hams and tasty cheeses to vintage clothes. A neighbourhood institution dating back to 1873, many Florentine families have fond memories of visiting the market. If you want to feel like a local, head here and buy some fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and make your own dinner. 

Florence isn’t all about the grand masterpieces of the Renaissance. To see the other side of Florence’s art scene head to San Niccolò, known as the city’s creative district for its art galleries, artisan boutiques, and hipster crowd. It’s also the only place in Florence where you can see the original medieval city walls.

STAY

If you plan to travel with a pet, Residence San Niccolò accepts furry companions and comes with all the essentials, including a washing machine and a kitchen. After something more luxurious? Plaza Hotel Lucchesi has an infinity pool with views of the Duomo and Florence’s skyline. 

EAT

Grab a plate of Tuscan cold cuts and sheep cheeses – or traditional dishes like pasta with onions – at Beppa Fioraia, a cozy tavern with a local crowd. Or dine in an old crypt at the nineteenth-century Osteria Antica Mescita. Make sure to try the tripe with basil. 

DRINK

There are endless varieties of vino – from Tuscan to other Italian labels – at the rustic Enoteca Fuori Porta. Sip in the sunshine at one of the many outdoor tables, and line the stomach with snacks like crispy grissini (breadsticks).

DO

The Bardini Museum is a ‘secret’ convent-turned-gallery, stacked with masterpieces hailing back to Ancient Roman times, while the Museo Casa Siviero has a classical art collection hosted in a lavish nineteenth-century palazzo. Outside, stroll in the gardens that line the Arno river, or laze on the benches where professionals relax after work. 

If you only do one thing…

Go on a guided tour of the medieval San Niccolò tower. It was once part of the old city walls and one of the main entry portals to the city. 

Get to know Florence’s romantic soul at the lush Boboli Gardens. With its majestic fountains and statues, it’s great for evening strolls. Nearby, there’s no better spot to admire the sunset and city views than Piazzale Michelangelo, dubbed the city’s ‘balcony’. 

STAY

Enjoy the peacefulness of the area at this new Airbnb loft with wooden beam ceilings, ideal for groups and families. Or there’s this tiny Airbnb, tucked away in a quiet street. 

EAT

It’s all about great Tuscan pasta, meat, and fish dishes here. La Loggia del Piazzale Michelangelo has a panoramic terrace to admire the skyline while Trattoria Boboli, next door to the gardens, has an elegant courtyard. 

DRINK

There’s no better way to get a taste of Florence’s dolce vita than by sipping a Negroni or taking a shot of Sambuca with mozzarella finger foods at Terrazze Michelangelo bar. Florentines flock here for happy hour, relaxing on the panoramic patios. 

DO

If getting lost in the labyrinthine gardens of Boboli isn’t enough to stretch your muscles, the rather tough climb to Piazzale Michelangelo will be rewarding. In the middle stands a copy of Michelangelo’s famous David sculpture – along with yet another panoramic city view, it’s a real feast for the eyes.

If you only do one thing…

Indulge in a sunset drink on Piazzale Michelangelo while taking in views of the entire city. Sitting at one of the area’s cocktail terraces while munching on crostini di fegatini (a Tuscan dish of bread and chicken liver patè) is a wonderful way to while away a few hours.