Pubs claiming to be ‘Irish’ in this city have an iffy relationship with anything even remotely close to what can be seen as authentically Irish – Malones isn’t any different but it plays to the current aesthetic of the gastropub trend. For all its posturing, it’s a restaurant posing as a pub, not a pub with a restaurant.
Its modern British menu isn’t a revelation either; it’s the last ten years of British food in one tidy list. Cue the bread-and-butter puddings, fish and chips, and colcannon mash. Its saving grace is (no surprise) the boozing atmosphere. It’s a joint where pints (of Guinness, natch) will flow freely and late into the night. Boozehounds could do worse.
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