April 2011
There is huge competition in Kuala Lumpur for high-end Mediterranean style cooking so any new entrant to the market has to be pretty good for people to take notice. Le Midi, which opened about six months ago by Melissa Groot and her husband, is making a strong case to be considered among the best. This is a nice place with a very well thought-out menu and a genuine focus on consistency.
The Mediterranean octopus salad was immediately impressive, a balance of good flavour and freshness. It was a surprisingly satisfying dish with solid chunks of perfectly cooked octopus woven into a crisp, well-dressed salad. So I’m starting to take notice. My dining partners also cooed over a Maine lobster cream with parsley foam soup which had a pleasant smoky seafood taste. Jumbo prawns with roasted fennel was an interesting albeit unusual starter, which was also no less impressive.
My Tuscany style grain-fed prime rib main course was a delicious piece of meat but as so often happens in this city, ‘medium-rare’ has far too little meaning and both the quality of the dish and the tenderness of the meat were affected by over-cooking. Other main courses which showed greater lightness of touch were duck confit and a Moroccan chicken tagine. These were well presented and adroitly executed.
With dessert came a eureka moment: the tiramisu was simply delicious. However, we should also note that of the dishes we tried, there were a few misses. The moule mariniers was insipid and the profiterole dessert disappointing. This was whole-heartedly rejected by our only child diner who quite rightly was expecting a light choux pastry filled with fresh cream, not the impenetrable balls of frozen icecream that were presented to her.
On other fronts, the wine choice, while not for the faint of heart in terms of pricing, is impressive. Still, there is value to be had on close inspection and it’s a well thought out list. Le Midi also scores very highly on service. The Calabrian maitre d’, Salvatore Scarpino, has recently joined from Alloro in Dover Street, London and he has brought with him a knowledgeable, efficient but friendly style appropriate to the surroundings.
Minor criticism aside, there is no question that Le Midi’s accomplished food, professional service and exclusive surroundings stands out from the crowd. Classic Mediterranean dishes and quality produce get full coverage on a menu that’s modern yet recognisable, with a definite ‘something for everyone’ appeal. The stunning view over Bangsar and the jelly fish aquarium are impressive. A KL classic in the making? Le Midi does seem to be heading that way. Richard Beatty