Dewakan

A portmanteau of the Malay words dewa and makan—meaning “god” and “food”—Dewakan can be interpreted as “food of gods.” At the helm of chef-proprietor Darren Teoh, Dewakan redefines modern Malaysian cuisine with a spotlight on indigenous ingredients—such as buah keluak and kulim—and locally- and sustainably-sourced produce. There’s only one prix fixe tasting menu at RM788.80 per pax. Some highlights from the current menu include aged mackerel cured in smoked busut vinegar with a salad of bamboo shoots and flowers, mussels grilled over charcoal covered in a sauce of fermented tapioca then topped with cured egg yolk and cooked saba bananas, and pearl clams from Sabah served with a cold soup of selom and mint.