Joaquín Sabina, the gravelly voiced Madrid musician and legend, does restaurants, too, but who'd have expected it to be Mexican food? And such good authentic Mexican food too, straight from the heart of Tenochtitlan. Usually full to bursting with high-spirited tequila drinkers, this is the place to embrace mole, the Mexican chocolate sauce that often scares the uninitiated away. The pavo (turkey) con mole melts in your mouth and the cochinita pibil (pork tacos with spicy chilli sauce) is equally exquisite. See which local celebs or Sabina song references you can identify on the wall's wildly painted murals.