Where to eat and drink in Paris this summer
A Michelin star here and there is just the icing on the gâteau: these bars, bistros and restaurants are young, international and full of creative energy
Tweaking the tail of the prim and traditional Ile St Louis, Spanish designer Jaime Hayón has created a fabulous modern-retro design mash-up in an old town house. In the kitchen Antonin Bonnet (previously of The Greenhouse in Mayfair) creates a similarly impressive menu of updated French classics. Eat at the bar for a more accessible taste of this high-class Michelin-starred sensation.
- 41 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4e
The international team behind wildly popular taqueria Candelaria and rock’n’roll dive Glass have done it again
with Le Mary Céleste. During happy hour (and in season) you can get wild oysters for as little as €1 apiece – the rest of the year, it’s ceviche and an intriguing menu of small Asian-influenced dishes, plus natural wines, Brooklyn beers, superior cocktails and a whole lot of buzz.
- 1 rue Commines, 3e
Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian used to run a supper club, and their restaurant retains the aura of a hidden treasure in a private home. Set discreetly back from the street in an achingly sophisticated neighbourhood, they serve an international eight-course tasting menu that will knock your socks off, plus a lunchtime selection of nostalgic America-themed sandwiches (braised pork, fried chicken) in the wine bar downstairs.
- 52 rue de Richelieu, 1e
Youthful self-taught Aussie chef James Henry flexes his muscles, tattoos and chutzpah at this new venture where the ingredients are the stars of the show. Book several weeks in advance for the no-choice four-course tasting menu at €47 a head, served in the 25-seater dining room, or try the bar for craft beers, freshly-shucked oysters and homemade charcuterie.
- 43 rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 11e
La Pointe du Groin is the newest addition to what is now a family of three restaurants from chef Thierry Breton crammed into the Rue Belzunce. Don’t be put off by the name, which comes from the northern coast of his native Brittany. The superb wine list and salty, meaty hors d’oeuvres (smoked sausage, goose barnacles, black pudding) have all the invigorating punch of their wild, stormy namesake.
- 8 rue de Belzunce, 10e
Ideally situated on the Canal Saint-Martin, L’Epicerie Musicale is a delightful hybrid of café-bar-restaurant-delicatessen-music store. The retro furniture gives the interior all the charm of an old Sicilian café, offset by graffiti art on the walls, a deli section with fish, wine, oils, hams fresh cheeses and more imported from Italy, and a jazz, soul, funk, tropical and retro-latino soundtrack from hundreds of vinyl records.
- 55 bis quai de Valmy, 10e
In a secluded courtyard of 18th-century former convent Les Récollets, Café A is a truly special destination – to reach it, you’ll need to navigate your way past an iron gate and through the cloisters to a tree-lined garden full of chaises longues. The wine list is all organic and biodynamic, and there’s a lively events programme of gigs, weekend DJ sets, film screenings and more.
- 148 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 10e
Designed by the Encore Heureux collective, Petit Bain looks like a fluorescent green barge topped by a cubist wooden tree house. The coveted terrace doubles as a bar, restaurant and gardener’s paradise, decked out with myriad aquatic plants. It regularly hosts live music in a range of genres – not to mention an old school techno and acid house party hosted by Time Out on 19 July.
- 7 port de la Gare, 13e
Opened at the beginning of this year, Joséphine sashayed its way into the lead of the bars around the grungy nearby Rue Oberkampf. A glamorous speakeasy-style den of sophisticated cocktails, wines and rare whiskies, its look is supposedly inspired by titillating 1920s dance hall star Joséphine Baker, and the work of 1940s American tattoo artists. A glass panel reveals the well-stocked wine cellar beneath the dance floor, and there’s even a fumoir – the indoor rooms that are a loophole in the smoking ban.
- 25 rue Moret, 11e
Anyone subjected to a gritty shot of Cafés Richard with their morning croissant will understand why coffee in Paris has a bad rep, but the scent of freshly-ground beans is finally on the air. A slew of hip roast-savvy cafés have started to cater to people passionate about their brew – both experts from abroad and Parisian converts to the cult of quality caffeine. Try a weekend tasting session at Café Aouba in the Marché d’Aligre, a Portuguese espresso with a creamy pata de neis at Comme à Lisbonne in the Marais, or a cup from a steampunk-look ’60s ‘coffee siphon’ at Le Coutume Café.