Blink and you could miss any mention of Napoleon's reign in Rome - from 1798 to 1814 - in standard accounts of the city. But dreams of empire were the Corsican's fatal fantasy; he even shipped in Pope Pius VII for his imperial coronation in Paris in 1804. Rome was mostly an opportunity for grabbing as much loot as his army could carry, hauling back cartloads of marbles and old masters. But the emperor's mother Letizia lived happily in the Palazzo Bonaparte on piazza Venezia for many years, spying on the locals from behind the dark green shutters of her kiosk. Meanwhile, his sister Pauline posed in the nude for sculptor Canova and ran up huge bills for her millionaire Roman husband, Prince Camillo Borghese. The Museo Napoleonico contains pieces relating to the imperious Frenchman's family.