Oviedo has something of a clubbish atmosphere and is a favourite with businessmen and political hacks. But never mind the clientele: feel the quality. Here, classic Iberian dishes are prepared with great care and attention to detail. Tortilla la espanola, goat's cheese croquettes, grilled chipirones, baked clams, and oven-baked white fish are savoury reminders of the old country, each one faithful to traditional recipes but also something special in its own right. The staff is of the old-fashioned variety: attentive, professional gentlemen in bow ties, and the wine list is one of the best in Buenos Aires.