Livraria, Livros, Cascais, Dejá Lu
©Ana LuziaDejá Lu
©Ana Luzia

Between swims and golf swings: bookshops

A guide to the town’s essential bookshops - and a literary itinerary that showcases another side of Cascais.

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Here at Time Out we believe in the redemptive power of books. And, apparently, so do some Cascais residents. In the space of 10 years, Cascais' first large independent bookshop has been joined by four more. Each one has its own speciality areas – used books, less mainstream books, foreign literature or books for the little ones – and they all live in harmony with each other. 

And then, there's more in our literary route. Is it a house? Is it a museum? Is it a bookshop? Yes, yes and yes. In Casa Sommer, in the Museum Quarter, you will find the Cascais Municipal Historical Archive and Municipal Bookshop, in which all the works are either published or supported by the municipality. Formerly the residence of millionaire businessman Henrique Sommer, it opened in 2016. 

Best bookshops in Cascais

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The first bookshop in Cascais, Livraria Galileu has been on Avenida Valbom, one of the town's most important commercial streets, since it opened in 1972. In the past it hosted lively get-togethers and book signing sessions, and even organised the town’s first book fair. Famous for its imaginative window displays that always catch the attention of the curious, whether they be locals or tourists, it offers an extensive selection that requires time to explore: new releases, second-hand books, works in different languages, old magazines, maps and other treasures. In short, this is an independent bookshop with hints of an antiquarian bookshop, complete with shelves overflowing with treasure and catering to those who, as they themselves will say, prefer rarity and quality over the mainstream.

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A second-hand bookshop with books that are arranged neatly in wine crates, and where the sections do not follow the conventional categories. Located in the art district, but hidden discreetly on the first floor, it has room after room full of literary surprises. Déjà Lu also has a busy schedule. There are workshops, lectures and readings. There is also a restaurant for special occasions next door. And the icing on the cake is the cause. All sales include a contribution to the Trisomy 21 Carriers Association.

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After spending ten years working at Bertrand, Portugal’s oldest and largest chain of bookshops, Ricardo Gomes set himself up in an independent bookshop in the centre of Cascais. At the time he had a partner (whose initials were also RG), but he now works alone, aiming to have the most comprehensive selection possible. He says: “We are generalists, but what sets us apart is the range of foreign language books, literature and children's books.” The shop’s website gives us a taste of what is to be found on the shop’s tables and shelves, which is constantly changing, but this is no substitute for a visit to the shop or a chat with Ricardo, who as someone who knows the field is always ready to make a suggestion. And if by any chance you have children at home who are enchanted by the pages of illustrated books, then take them along to RG where they are guaranteed to have a good time.

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In fact, it is a bookshop. It is a counter-current bookshop. It was launched in the midst of the pandemic, in October, at a time when independent bookstores seemed to be suffering. But there is nothing like an irreverent project to bring joy to true literature enthusiasts. It is run by the same people as its neighbour Déjà Lu (with second-hand books) and was created to give some space to ideas that could not grow in another format. “We focus on a close relationship with authors, through signed books and other partnerships. We focus on books that few people know exist and on foreign literature outside the usual bestsellers, books with some literary value,” says Francisca Prieto, who is one of the creators. They also have a shop selling items related to literature and the arts – they are in Cascais’s Art District after all – and a subscription project, A Caixa Fora da Caixa, which offers monthly book deliveries and other surprises for €28 that are then explored on Indie’s social media. There is no lack of imagination.

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It’s well worth making the trip to this shop in Alcabideche, either on your own or with the children, who will surely appreciate the visit. The space is not large but it houses a wide variety of books for the little ones, and as well as some books published under the Prodidáctico label you can also find other publishers there, such as Planeta Tangerina, Kalandraka, Bruaá, Orfeu Mini, Akiara Books, Margarida Botelho, Livros Horizonte, Qual Albatroz and Minutos de Leitura Edições. If you need ideas, the bookshop’s Instagram page provides “Book of the Day” suggestions almost every day, as well as miniature book recommendations.

Extra! Extra! The Cascais Literary Tour

Cascais invariably gives the impression of pleasurable leisure and is a popular setting for stories, characters and writers. Even before the advent of the railway at the end of the 19th century, writer Almeida Garrett was already sneaking off to Cascais in search of his forbidden love, the Viscountess da Luz. With the progressive reduction of the distance between town and capital, more and more authors wrote about Cascais. Ramalho Ortigão praised the beaches and the therapeutic properties of the waters, while Alberto Pimentel was delighted with the local food. For Fernando Pessoa and Maria Amália Vaz de Carvalho, Cascais was a comforting spiritual refuge. Eça de Queiroz used to gather the main intellectuals of his time for animated dinners at Casa de S. Bernardo in Cascais. And despite the town’s naturally relaxed side, it could also not escape the main issues of its time, as Ruben A reminds us, after having lived with refugees from the Second World War in Chalet Leitão beside the bay. It is also important to highlight the role of Branquinho da Fonseca, who was responsible for bringing libraries to the community, through his recognised work as curator of the Condes de Castro Guimarães Museum-Library.

The Cascais Literary Tour was born from these many references that link books to the town and is a way to promote the local literary heritage. It is a pleasant three-kilometre walk that takes about 60 minutes. Head over to 360.cascais.pt/en/routes to find out more.  

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