Given a gorgeous roof deck above their pizzeria, Roots, Greg Mohr and Scott Weiner opted to open what they’ve called “a literal farm-to-table restaurant.” While the setting (complete with a lush meadow and vertical vegetable garden) is magical, the food (from chef John Wayne Formica) is less the acute, seasonal Lula Café approach and more David Burke-esque playfulness gone haywire—with some edible flowers on it. Truffle-perfumed potato puree shaped like cannoli, lamb formed into falafel-like balls and a toxically boozy chocolate cake topped with a strip of bacon all straddled the line between goofy and weird. Recommended: consultant Revae Schneider’s notably smooth-bodied cocktails; simple salads (like a paltry but lovely plate of heirloom tomatoes); fork-tender beer-braised beef; and a generosity of spirit to channel toward the awkward servers.
1924 W Chicago Ave
|Opening hours:||Dinner (closed Mon), (from Spring to end of September)|
|Transport:||Bus: 9, 50, 66.|
|Price:||Average main course: $15|