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This counter—like every good Jewish deli—is manned by workers who are gruff, efficient and impatient. The food is equally no-frills: Thinly sliced corned beef is piled on high; lox platters include red onion, cream cheese and tomato, but lettuce stands in for capers (which are available for an extra charge per request); housemade blintzes are small pockets of delicious creaminess served on paper plates.
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