Perennial Virant (CLOSED)

The regularly changing dinner menu at Paul Virant's restaurant always includes thoughtful vegetable dishes and excellent charcuterie, but our favorite time at the restaurant is brunch. While the brunch menu, too, is seasonal, there will always be a doughnut, like a recent version with carrot jam and cream cheese vanilla glaze, and an excellent Bloody Mary garnished with an elk, pickle and cheese stick. A hearty plate of corned beef hash with poached eggs came with tangy creamed pickled beets, a surprising brunch side that made us willing to try anything Virant puts out in the morning.