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Photograph: Martha Williams
River North
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This female owner-and-chef team (both of Indian descent) isn’t doing Devon; it’s elevating Indian cuisine for the swank set that wouldn’t venture north of Belmont Avenue (a plentiful crowd, apparently, as it’s on a decade of business that includes expansion to NYC). Many dishes boast a Latin American flair for those interested in something other than straight-up Indian. Feeling adventurous? Try artichoke pakoras with an eggplant chili coconut sauce, tandoori steak with fried plantain chips and the lobster Portuguese, in which the shellfish is stewed in a deep, cumin-heavy, Goan-style gravy then split and spooned over coconut rice.

Venue name: Vermilion
Address: 10 W Hubbard St

Cross street: between State and Dearborn Sts
Opening hours: Lunch (Mon–Fri), dinner
Transport: El stop: Red to Grand; Brown, Purple (rush hrs) to Merchandise Mart. Bus: 2, 3, 10, 22, 26, 29, 33, 36, 65, 66, 125, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 151, 15.
Price: Average main course: $28
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