Vermilion

This female owner-and-chef team (both of Indian descent) isn’t doing Devon; it’s elevating Indian cuisine for the swank set that wouldn’t venture north of Belmont Avenue (a plentiful crowd, apparently, as it’s on a decade of business that includes expansion to NYC). Many dishes boast a Latin American flair for those interested in something other than straight-up Indian. Feeling adventurous? Try artichoke pakoras with an eggplant chili coconut sauce, tandoori steak with fried plantain chips and the lobster Portuguese, in which the shellfish is stewed in a deep, cumin-heavy, Goan-style gravy then split and spooned over coconut rice.