As the longest continuously operating hotel in North America, Palmer House is something of an institution in Chicago. First opened in 1871, this lavish Grande Dame has a string of bold claims to its name—it’s here the chocolate brownie was invented in 1893—and today it’s an extravagant, 25-storey behemoth of a hotel with more than 1,600 rooms.
At its heart is the gilded lobby, ambiently lit by 24-karat gold candelabras designed by Tiffany. You’ll also find a clutch of restaurants, bars and cafes—alongside an excellent spa, fitness centre and newly renovated pool, all smack-dab in the middle of Chicago’s buzzing downtown ‘Loop’ area. I was impressed by the grandeur of it all, and while its rooms could do with a refresh, there’s a real sense of heritage and history here that for me made it well worth the stay.
Why stay at Palmer House?
It’s all about the stories here. Everyone from Ronald Reagan, Bill Clinton and Barack Obama to Charles Dickens, Oscar Wilde and King Charles have stayed at Palmer House, while the likes of Frank Sinatra, Judy Garland and Louis Armstrong have performed in its gold-leafed Empire Room.
Originally a wedding gift from business magnate Potter Palmer to his socialite wife Bertha, this was the city’s elaborate hub at the turn of the century. It was rebuilt twice—once following the Great Chicago Fire in 1873, and again in 1925—and took French design for inspiration, with Bertha collecting works by the likes of Monet, Renoir and Pissarro.
Today its palatial lobby is still the crowning centrepiece, with regular live performers and a bar drawing both guests and non-guests beneath a frescoed ceiling. Here marble-topped tables, huge stone pillars and bronze winged angel statues sit beside gold candelabras, so that you feel a little bit like Mr Gatsby is going to appear any minute.
What are the rooms like at Palmer House?
You’ll find a grand total of 1,641 rooms across the hotel, from Standard Rooms with one or two double beds to Deluxe and Premium Rooms that add a bit of extra space. It’s also home to several larger Suites, which come with a wet bar and living and dining area, and there’s a good number of wheelchair-accessible options too.
I stayed in a Standard Room and while it wasn’t the most spacious, it did the job for me, with a comfy double bed. There was also a TV, armchair, small desk and en-suite bathroom, with good black-out curtains that didn’t have me up at 5am (a personal pet peeve).
Don’t expect overly sleek, ultra-modern accommodation, though. The hotel underwent a full $170m renovation in 2009, but the rooms do feel like they could do with another spruce-up and some brighter, more modern lighting. My bathroom was also on the smaller side, with a bathtub shower that wasn’t the most powerful, but it came with everything I needed.
Some fellow guests also mentioned the walls weren’t as noise-proof as they’d have liked. All of that said, I was personally quite happy with my stay here and slept like a baby—and given its history and location, I don’t think it’s bad for the price, especially if you’re coming in the low season (Standard Rooms start from $190 per night in January).
What are the best things to eat and drink at Palmer House?
As the home of the brownie—created when Bertha Palmer asked the pastry chef to create a dessert for ladies attending the World’s Fair in Chicago—you can’t leave here without trying at least one. I indulged at Lockwood Express, the hotel’s café, which sells them using the OG recipe, and I didn’t regret it; it was moist and buttery, topped with walnuts and a sweet apricot glaze.
I didn’t solely live off of chocolate during my stay, though. The Lockwood Restaurant, just off the main lobby, served classic American breakfasts like biscuits and gravy, build-your-own omelettes, granola parfait and pancakes (if you are still craving a sweet hit, try the Bertha’s brownie pancakes, topped with brownie crumble).
The lunch menu offered a selection of burgers, sandwiches and salads, and dinner featured the likes of grilled shawarma chicken with tabouleh, skirt steak with chimichurri, Scottish salmon with herbed ginger rice, and pork belly bao buns. The menu did feel a bit limited and it’s worth noting it’s not completely separate from the lobby area, so it can be a bit noisy (there are lots of great restaurants in the area if you want to explore beyond the hotel, though).
Drinks-wise, I was impressed by the selection. The Lockwood Bar served a long list of craft cocktails in the lobby (including a ‘Oaxacan Negroni’ and a ‘Garden Variety’ featuring gin, rhubarb, lemon and celery bitters), as well as wines from across the US and beyond, plus locally brewed beers.
I caved at the ‘Brownie Old Fashioned’, a slightly nutty concoction made with rye, Frangelico and crème de cacao, which came with a mini brownie on the side. It was especially memorable given the opulent surroundings and live music—guitarists and pianists play in the lobby from 6-9pm from Thursdays to Sundays, so you can expect a convivial vibe on weekends.
Elsewhere in the hotel, the speakeasy-style Potter’s Bar served its own menu of classic cocktails—from French 75s to Side Cars—with atmospheric, mahogany-brown and burgundy décor.
There’s also a Starbucks in the hotel, and the Express-2-You service offers room delivery every day from 4pm-9.30pm, although I didn’t get to sample this.
What is the service like at Palmer House?
Staff are generally friendly and welcoming, but as it’s a big, busy, bustling hotel, don’t expect it to be overly personalised. Those I spoke to were responsive and helpful, though; I couldn’t find a kettle or coffee maker in my room, so I asked for one at reception and it was swiftly brought up.
What are the spa, pool and wellness facilities like at Palmer House?
The spa and health club here were among the hotel’s highlights for me. There’s a huge, impressively well-equipped fitness centre sprawling 10,000sq ft and spread across three levels. Here you’ll find swanky Precor treadmills, cross trainers, step machines, strength training equipment, free weights and more, plus a yoga room and a Peloton bike room. The gym is accessible 24/7 with your key card, and despite the hotel being busy, I almost had it to myself the morning I went.
There’s also a heated indoor pool that was renovated in 2022—it’s normally open from 5.30am to 9pm every day, but is temporarily closed at the moment (and was when I was there).
The spa meanwhile offers massages, hydrotherapy treatments, body wraps, foot therapies and facials—including a high-tech-sounding ‘fire and ice’ facial that combines ‘an enzymatic peel and cryotherapy’. There’s also a salon where you can get manicures, pedicures and (on request) hair and make-up. If you want to go more in-depth, the spa’s retreat consultant can help you arrange a full-on, personalised wellness retreat package.
What’s the area like around Palmer House?
The hotel sits right in the centre of the ‘Loop’, Chicago’s downtown area, and while mirrored skyscrapers soar all around, this is far from just a business spot. It’s one of the city’s most buzzing neighbourhoods and the home of the Theater District, alongside the Art Institute of Chicago, which lays claim to one of the biggest impressionist art collections outside of France. This is in part thanks to Bertha Palmer herself, who donated many works she’d acquired to the museum.
Millennium Park is also a few minutes’ stroll away. This is the area’s central, grassy hub, drawing visitors en masse thanks to ‘The Bean’—a glossy metal art installation by Anish Kapoor, where posing for photos in its wavy, psychedelic reflection is the thing to do. The Chicago Riverwalk is also close by, offering waterfront restaurants and a paved, riverside promenade.
Why you should book a stay at Palmer House
The hotel’s illustrious history, excellent location, buzzing lobby-bar area and great spa and fitness facilities make it a good choice. Just be prepared for the sheer scale and number of guests (I got lost a few times trying to navigate its various floors and different lifts), and book a Deluxe/Premium Room if you want a little more space. While you can find swankier rooms in town, this is one of those hotels that feels like a true social hub, and the stories alone make it a fascinating spot to base yourself.
DETAILS
Address: 17 East Monroe Street, Chicago, Illinois, 60603
Price: Standard Rooms start from $190 per night
Closest transport: Monroe station is a few minutes’ walk away, with connections on the red and blue ‘L’ trains.
Book now: via Booking.com
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