With its rather lovely blue-painted storefront facade and sweet little Sycamore Street running down one side of it, the Mermaid is a pretty prospect from the outside. And the good news is, it lives up to its initial promise. Don't come expecting culinary fireworks, perhaps, but you can certainly look forward to a rich crop of well-executed dishes on the daily menu. When we were last there, a feisty starter of citrus-cured salmon with fennel and mustard seeds was followed by excellent hake with a pine nut crust and celeriac gratin. There are meaty dishes too (steak, pork belly and whatnot) and some decadent desserts (the pecan pie with maple ice cream is legendary). Basically, if you're a fan of tasty food and fine wines, the Mermaid is always a safe bet.