Classic Irish dishes get a truly gourmet twist at this stalwart of Dublin's fine-dining scene: the oysters in Guinness sabayon are legendary. Located in the heart of the business and media district, it attracts many suits at lunch, but in the evening it's the perfect spot for a romantic dinner or family celebration. Any note of formality is truly Irish (that is, non-existent), and a good time is encouraged, often via the piano downstairs in the bar. And while the cooking here may be highly accomplished, it is also refreshingly lacking in pretension: spring lamb, for example, might be served in the form of a moussaka with green peas, mint, feta and confit aubergine. On a sunny day (they do happen sometimes), it is definitely worth bribing someone for a terrace table.