‘Established 1675’ says the sign outside and, tucked down a sought-after Mayfair mews, this venerable establishment is truly a thoroughbred in the Young’s stable. A gilt-framed portrait of the now octogenarian royal couple in a pre-nuptial portrait pose sets the tone amid the pub’s varnished wood and tartan.
Prime Aberdeenshire Scotch beef is the speciality of the Guinea Grill, while the handmade pork pies (£2.75) should satisfy smaller appetites. As well as standard Young’s ales on the centrepiece bar counter, Bombardier, Courage Director’s, Peroni and Pilsner Urquell are also available on draught, plus Bitburger by the bottle – although from May, Pimm’s (£4.05; £20.60 by the jug) might be more appropriate. A somewhat limited choice of wine stretches to a Chablis St-Claire, pleasingly sold by the glass.