Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Wed Oct 20 2010
The Uplands, by all accounts a downtrodden Dulwich drinker, has been turned into by an altogether more impressive endeavour opened by the same folk behind The Bishop (do you see what they’ve done with the name there?).
With its sunny colour scheme, venetian blinds, white tongue-and-groove roof panelling and ceiling fans, it feels a bit like being in a southern US state, only without the rednecks.
A pointillist mural of a rather attractive lady, created by an Australian artist using spray-cans, adorns the back wall. Low-backed booths line the bar area, there’s stylish lighting throughout and a deep outside terrace has room for plenty of alfresco action.
Like The Bishop, The Actress is big on boutique beer: Meantime Pale Ale and Sharp’s Red Ale on draught, a handful of cask hand pumps and seven different ciders. A solid selection of wine too, including the house choice on draught.
But the ‘pizza-resistance’ is the wood-fired oven adjacent to an open plan kitchen; and opposite it, a marble-topped island bar.
Wood-fired pizza is the main dining draw, but it’s a nicer slice than your normal suburban pub efforts. In fact, with a light and lean crust and esoteric toppings, it’s more like fancy flatbread.
Nearly all the ingredients are sourced from England (chorizo being an exception) – the one topped with rosemary potatoes, roast garlic and Stilton was a winner, but not if you’re on a date.
There’s a dessert pizza too topped with chocolate, banana and dulce de leche. Special mention must be made of the delicious New York-style corn-on-the-cob rolled in parmesan, paprika and lime.
The Actress 90 Crystal Palace Rd