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Kennington was once the epicentre of London’s music hall scene, with luvvies propping up the bars of rowdy taverns lining Kennington Road. Fast forward 120 years and The Tankard – the latest from beer-focused pub group The Draft House – is harking back to this colourful history. Reverting to its original name from 1825, the old-school boozer once overlooked the grounds of infamous asylum Bethlem Hospital (aka Bedlam) and was frequented by a young Charlie Chaplin, sent in by his mum to fetch his music-hall-performing pop from the bar. The old soaks at the pub are said to have influenced Chaplin’s slapstick and The Tankard has taken this heritage to heart. The striking – if slightly gaudy – red-and-black décor nods to the area’s former theatrics, as do illustrations of the ‘Little Tramp’.
As is to be expected, the beer selection is top-notch and friendly bar staff are on hand to guide you through the colossal menu. There’s everything from cans courtesy of small-scale British breweries (notably Northern Monk, Magic Rock and Gypsy Hill Brewery) to European lagers and American pale ales. There’s a healthy selection of sprits, too, including the juniper-rich Victory Gin, straight from the group’s distillery in Bermondsey. Cheese is the watchword on the food front, with a section of the menu dedicated to beer and cheese pairings.
The spacious downstairs bar was quiet when we visited on a Saturday night. But, head up a twisting, red spiral staircase and you’ll find the cause – a charming roof terrace full of twinkling, festoon lights and pergolas.
It’s fair to say the Chaplin-esque look feels a little trite. But, it’s nothing a long drinks list and a pretty view over the Imperial War Museum (thankfully, not Bethlem any more) can’t fix.