When this place opened, back in 2004, it was billed as ‘London’s first boutique hotel’. That means you can probably guess the vibe, but if pushed? I’d describe it as ‘classy vintage’, which means stag heads, luxe red wallpaper, staff kitted out in braces and waistcoats, that kind of thing. I felt like I’d entered the pages of a Victorian mystery. I liked it.
But first things first – this place isn’t easy to find. You might need to Google-map your way through its secluded blue door on St John Square, but it’s totally worth the hunt. That’s not to say it’s not without its faults. Keen for a view, I picked a spot by the window for my (excellent) small-plates dinner, and got to spend the evening gazing out at some scaffolding. Still, that’s hardly their fault, and you can’t have everything, right?
And everything else really was pretty fine. My room was big for a boutique hotel, with a canopied queen bed (I loved the sheets and ridiculously soft mattress) and some of the nicest reading lamps, I’ve ever used. It’s all very cosy and homely, and I really liked the hot water bottle and the corded telephone, even if the rotary dial was just a prop (probably best – they always were a pain in the arse).
To be honest, the whole place was well thought-out and elegant, with exceptional service from people that clearly care about what they do. Special mention, though, to the gorgeous bath – I could definitely get used to regular soaks in that – a blissful element of a really rather lovely hotel. I reckon I might be back soon.
Neighbourhood:
You’re in a historic part of town, home to Smithfield Market (for now – there’s redevelopment afoot) and Exmouth Market (try the superb food market), as well as world-class cultural centres, Michelin-starred restaurants and a whole load more. If you’re looking to explore, you’re just a five-minute walk from the recently revamped Farringdon Station, with overground and underground lines very decent conduits for most of London.
Nearby:
Smithfield Market: Visit this world-renowned open-air meat market for an authentic slice of London history. Just be prepared to be up bright and early - the market’s opening hours are 12 am - 7 am.
Sadler’s Wells: For the spectacular dance performances - from ballet to flamenco. There’s also the occasional opera.
Charles Dickens Museum: Visit the home of the Literary legend and uncover more about the early Victorian era with a guided tour.
Time Out tip: Zetter’s little book of cocktails is inspired by different travel destinations, and it’s customary to collect a stamp after each visit. If you intend to sip your way across the globe, I’d definitely recommend the Parisian-inspired champagne cocktail Twinkle, though be warned, the fizz will go to your head. Looking for a non-alcoholic cocktail? Try A Rose by Another Name. Delicious.
