As bar after bar opens using the rather tired ‘Brooklyn Prohibition’ template, Experimental Cocktail Club seems ever more original – it’s hard to find, sure, perhaps more so than any other ‘speakeasy’ in London, but inside remains opulent and elegantly aloof to trends. It’s arranged over three floors of an old Chinatown townhouse, flatteringly lit and expensively decorated. Booking isn’t essential (half of the capacity is kept back for walk-ins), but it is recommended and worth the hassle (email booking only, between noon and 5pm). Cocktails are among the best in town, accessibly priced and not too show-offy in terms of ingredient and preparation – ‘experimental’ isn’t perhaps accurate. However, they’re all sophisticated, complex, strong and persuasive; see, for example, the Havana (cigar-infused bourbon, marsala wine, Bruichladdich Octomore single malt ‘wash’). Immaculately attired bar staff are clearly knowledgeable about their subject, although floor staff could be friendlier and, when it gets busy, a bit sharper. A range of vintage spirits (1950s gin martini, £150) indulges those with money to flaunt, but in the main, and despite its initially daunting demeanour, ECC is just a great place for an evening of rarely surpassed cocktails.